An Italian Velvet With The Design Used For Sultan Mehmed Iv’s (R. 1648-87) Ceremonial Kaftan

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An Italian Velvet With The Design Used For Sultan Mehmed Iv’s (R. 1648-87) Ceremonial Kaftan

17th Century
Probably Florence

The ‘a griccia’ design on this ceremonial Italian velvet, probably from Florence, is closely related to the long-sleeved, short ceremonial kaftan, associated with Sultan Mehmed IV (r. 1648-87). Please see: Tezcan, Delibaş & Rogers, Topkapi – Costumes, Embroideries and other Textiles, London, 1986, cat. 49.

Italian velvets were highly desirable at the Ottoman court for their three-dimensionality and status as prestigious imports. In the textile collection of the Topkapı Palace the kaftans made of Ottoman velvet are a minority, as most surviving pieces are Italian textiles made for Ottoman patrons.

The initial Ottoman preference for Venetian velvets was probably replaced by Florentine velvets, especially after relations with Venice deteriorated. The pomegranate motif we see in this present velvet repeatedly appears on kaftans worn at court and was equally celebrated by both Italians and Ottomans as a symbol of wealth and prosperity.

For similar Italian velvets made for the Ottoman palace circles please see: Medicilerden Savoylara Floransa Saraylarında Osmanlı Görkemi, SSM, Istanbul, 2003, pp. 172-3. Venezia e Istanbul in Epoca Ottomana, Electa, Venice, 2010, pp. 222-3.

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An Italian Velvet With The Design Used For Sultan Mehmed Iv’s (R. 1648-87) Ceremonial Kaftan

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